Print Mounting

Entries for the Annual Photographic exhibition must be mounted in 16 by 20 inch photographic mount board. (There is an exception for the Photo Essay entries – see the rules)

There are several ways to do this. The traditional way is to use mounting tissue, the tacking iron (sign out at the Hall Porter’s Desk), and the Print Mounting Press in the club room.

Here is an excellent article from the internet. It describes the traditional way of print mounting, but does not use the Sealmount release sheet. Instead, it uses another mount board. Prayers and alcoholic toasts are optional.

Mount board and mounting tissue can usually be purchased at Henry’s (Church and Queen) other photo shops, and Aboveground Art Supplies, south of the Ontario Art Gallery. Be aware that there are 2 types of mounting tissue. One is for fiber base prints, the other for resin coated and colour prints. They use different temperatures: the one for fiber uses 225 degrees F, which melts (ruins) resin coated prints, the other uses 200 degrees F.

Here is a link to the article

Other Mounting Methods

It is acceptable to cut a hole in the mounting board and tape the print to the back. However, the hole should be cut with a special mat board knife, on a 45 degree angle, the edges should be sharp, and the tape is a special acid free tape. Some prefer this method, thinking it is more permanent.

I used the traditional method for years, but have recently switched to a special photographic spray on rubber cement, made by 3M. You trim the print as described in Butzi’s article, carefully measure the mount board for position,then spray the back. Ease the print onto the board ( I start at the top), then use a hard rubber roller to seal the print in place, without bubbles, creases, etc.

I work on a pile of newspaper, discarding each sheet after it is used, because you want no glue on the front of the print or on the mount board.

People used to use rubber cement, but the prints often fell off during the exhibition. The new product seems good, but purists may say it is not as permanent as dry mounting. Watch that no glue gets on the surface of the print, or mount board.

Last year, someone entered a print attached to the mount board with black photo corners, like the ones used in photo albums. Also someone entered a print stapled to a piece of white boxboard, with jagged edges! The quality of these prints was so good that the judges awarded prizes, but the mounting was certainly not the standard we look for.

One other related thought: If there is a flaw in the print, such as that caused by a bit of dust on the negative, or a small scratch, this can be painted out using spottone, available at the major photo stores. You can buy 4 different shades of black/brown, and it comes with directions for mixing to match most photo emulsions. Use a 00 camel hair brush, and dilute the solution and go over the flaw several times.

W. Dowkes

Chair, Hart House Camera Club

January, 2003